Data recovery: hard drives, SSDs, USB and cards

Stop using it first

A failing drive can get worse each time it is powered on, and deleted files can be overwritten by anything new saved to the same storage. Do not keep restarting the computer, do not run repair or recovery programs found online, and do not install anything onto the drive you want to recover.

If the computer offers to format or initialise a drive, say no. If a hard drive clicks, grinds or buzzes, turn it off and leave it off. After a drop, spill or power surge, do not keep trying it to see whether it has come good.

Hard drives

Internal and external spinning hard drives from desktops and laptops. Unusual noises, a drive that no longer appears, or a sudden failure after a knock all belong here. Leave a clicking or grinding drive powered off.

Mark's recovery work includes swapping hard drive circuit boards where that fits the fault. Open platter or head work needs a specialist clean-room lab; if that is what the drive needs, Mark will say so rather than open it here.

SSDs

Solid-state drives from desktops and laptops, including ones that no longer mount or that lost files after a crash. Tell us the make and model if you know them, and whether the drive is encrypted.

Deleted files on an SSD may already be gone for good. An encrypted SSD needs its key or password before any useful recovery attempt. You will hear those limits before money is spent on an attempt.

USB sticks and drives

USB sticks and external USB drives that are not recognised, report as the wrong size, or stop showing files. Do not keep reformatting them to see if they come good.

Mark's recovery work over the years includes replacing controller parts on flash drives and reading storage chips directly when the stick itself is the fault.

The flash-storage recovery guide describes that work and why each device needs assessing first.

Memory cards

SD and other memory cards from cameras, phones and readers that will not open, ask to be formatted, or lost photos after a transfer failed. Stop writing new files to the card.

Phones can sometimes be included, but phone storage is normally encrypted and tied to that phone, so the options depend on the model and whether it still starts. Tell us what the card or phone is and we can talk it through.

Assessment before any recovery attempt

The first step is working out what has failed: deleted files, a damaged file system, failing electronics or a mechanical fault inside the drive. That decides the safest approach and whether recovery is practical. The quote depends on the device and the fault, and is agreed before any recovery attempt. Nothing is attempted until you know the options.

When a drive is failing, the aim is to copy what can still be read onto healthy storage once, then work from that copy rather than the original. Recovered files go onto separate storage, never back onto the failing device.

Honest limits

Some faults need a specialist clean-room lab, such as a hard drive with damaged heads or platters. Opening one outside that environment can destroy the data for good. If your drive needs that, Mark will say so and point you to a specialist rather than attempt risky work on it.

Recovery cannot be guaranteed. An encrypted drive needs its key or password, and an SSD may have already cleared deleted files, leaving nothing to recover. You will hear the realistic options before spending money on an attempt.

Backups afterwards

Once the files are back, open the ones that matter most to check them. Then set up a backup so your files no longer depend on one device: a copy on separate storage, ideally with one kept away from the computer, and a test restore to prove it works.

Do not go back to trusting the original drive for everyday use. If it failed once, plan to replace it. Mark can help set up the backup and the replacement at the same time.

If files are missing but the storage still works, start with files and backup help before treating it as failed media.